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Fabric Fundamentals

An introduction to fabric composition, woven, knitted and nonwoven structures, GSM, thickness, width, handle, drape and stretch.

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A fabric is a textile material in which fibers or yarns form a generally flexible surface. Weaving and knitting turn yarn into fabric; nonwoven formation can start directly from fibers. The familiar fiber → yarn → fabric sequence is therefore one route, not a requirement for every fabric.1

For the related material levels, explore fibers and yarn fundamentals.

Composition and construction

Fiber composition identifies the fiber material in a fabric. Construction describes how that material is arranged to form the fabric. A blend combines fiber types.2

For example, compare the descriptions cotton woven fabric and cotton knitted fabric. Both identify cotton as the fiber material, but they describe different constructions. “Cotton” alone does not identify the structure, and “knitted” alone does not identify the fiber composition. This distinction helps separate what a fabric contains from how it is formed.2

Three introductory structures

Woven, knitted, and nonwoven structures provide a starting point for understanding fabrics. They are not an exhaustive list of fabric formation routes.3

StructureHow the material is organizedTerms to recognize
WovenYarn sets interlace with one another.Warp yarns run lengthwise; weft yarns run across the fabric.3
KnittedYarn forms intermeshing loops.A course is a row of loops across the fabric; a wale is a lengthwise column of loops.4
NonwovenFibers form a web that is consolidated into fabric.A web is an arrangement of fibers in sheet form. Bonding gives it cohesion through mechanical, thermal, or chemical means; mechanical entanglement does not require glue.5

These descriptions identify structural differences. They do not assign a quality grade or establish a fabric’s suitability for a particular use.

GSM, thickness, and width

Fabric descriptions often include physical quantities alongside composition and construction. Keep the following quantities separate:

DescriptorWhat it describes
Mass per unit areaThe mass of a given area of fabric. GSM means grams per square meter, written g/m².6
ThicknessThe dimension through the fabric, from one surface to the other, measured under a specified pressure.7
WidthThe dimension across the fabric.8

GSM is a mass-per-area quantity, whereas thickness and width are dimensions. None is a complete description of fabric behavior. Quality requirements involve several properties, including handle and drape, so these descriptors alone are insufficient to establish quality or suitability.6789

Handle, drape, and stretch

Three useful words describe aspects of how a fabric feels and moves:

  • Handle, also called hand, concerns qualities perceived by touch, such as softness or firmness.
  • Drape describes how a fabric folds and conforms to a shape.
  • Stretch describes its ability to extend when pulled.10

Composition, construction, and finishing provide different parts of the explanation. For example, fiber and yarn choices can change the drape of single-knit fabrics. Stitch arrangement can also limit stretch within the knit family; the word “knit” does not specify one fixed stretch behavior.11

Finishing adds another influence. In nonwovens, treatments can change the tactile character of the fabric after web formation and bonding.12 These examples illustrate why a fabric description needs context. They do not provide a universal ranking of constructions or predict the performance of an individual fabric.

Citations

  1. ↩
  2. ↩ ↩2
  3. ↩ ↩2
  4. ↩
    • How are nonwovens made? — EDANA. Evidence locator: Web formation and Web bonding, opening paragraphs; Mechanical bonding, first paragraph.
    ↩
    • Glossary of nonwovens — EDANA. Evidence locator: BASIS WEIGHT (MASS PER UNIT AREA).
    • Fabric Checker — Grade XII — PSS Central Institute of Vocational Education (NCERT) · Draft study material (2024) · 2024. Evidence locator: Module 1, Session 4, printed p. 60 (PDF p. 67), Fabric weight.
    ↩ ↩2
  5. ↩ ↩2
    • Fabric Checker — Grade XII — PSS Central Institute of Vocational Education (NCERT) · Draft study material (2024) · 2024. Evidence locator: Module 1, Session 4, printed p. 60 (PDF p. 67), Fabric Width; Module 3, Session 1, Figure 3.1.
    ↩ ↩2
  6. ↩
  7. ↩
    • Single & Double Knits — Cotton Incorporated / CottonWorks. Evidence locator: Single Knits, opening; Single Knit Jacquard, paragraph on floats and limited natural stretch.
    ↩
  8. ↩

Sources used

Registry-backed sources reviewed for this page.

  1. SRC-000110Technical Documentation

    Fabric Manufacture I — 1. Introduction to Fabric Manufacturing; 1.1 Introduction

    NPTEL / Indian Institute of Technology Delhi

    Open source
  2. SRC-000112Technical Documentation

    Knit Basics

    Cotton Incorporated / CottonWorks

    Open source
  3. SRC-000113Trade Association

    How are nonwovens made?

    EDANA

    Open source
  4. SRC-000114Trade Association

    Glossary of nonwovens

    EDANA

    Open source
  5. SRC-000115Technical Documentation

    Single & Double Knits

    Cotton Incorporated / CottonWorks

    Open source
  6. SRC-000116Academic Textbook

    Fabric Checker — Grade XII

    PSS Central Institute of Vocational Education (NCERT) · Draft study material (2024) · 2024

    Open source