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Textile Index. “Knitting Fundamentals.” Reviewed Sep 12, 2026. https://textileindex.org/en/processes/knitting/

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Knitting Fundamentals

An introduction to knitted loops, courses and wales, weft and warp knitting, flat and circular machines, and the context needed for stretch and recovery.

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Knitting forms fabric by intermeshing loops of yarn. Weaving forms fabric by interlacing two yarn sets, warp and weft, typically at right angles. The useful starting distinction is how the yarns connect within the fabric.1

For the wider material context, see Fabric Fundamentals; for the yarn entering the process, see Yarn Fundamentals.

Loops, stitches, courses, and wales

A loop is the basic yarn unit of a knitted structure. In a simple loop fabric, a stitch is a loop intermeshed with other loops. Two terms describe their arrangement:2

  • A course is a row of loops across the fabric.
  • A wale is a column of loops along the fabric’s length.2

Picture a simple swatch with its length running up the page: follow a row sideways to trace a course, or a column upward to trace a wale. These words describe the fabric structure; turning the swatch does not exchange their meanings.2

Weft knitting and warp knitting

In weft knitting, a yarn forms a succession of loops generally across the fabric. A weft-knitted structure can be made from a single yarn supply.3

In warp knitting, a set of yarns is supplied lengthwise. A yarn can move between neighboring wales while forming loops in successive courses. Lengthwise supply does not mean that a yarn simply remains in one straight column.3

The distinction concerns yarn supply and path through the structure. Both families have courses and wales.23

Flat and circular knitting

Flat-bed and circular knitting describe machine arrangements within weft knitting:4

ArrangementBasic layout
Flat-bed knittingNeedles are arranged in a straight line on a bed.
Circular knittingKnitting takes place around a cylinder, commonly producing a fabric tube.

These describe a different aspect of knitting from the weft/warp distinction. Both arrangements listed here use the weft-knitting principle.4

Stretch, recovery, and fabric context

The looped structure allows the fabric to change shape under a pull, contributing to stretch. Stretch describes extension; recovery describes the return toward the original size and shape after deformation. Extension need not be fully recovered, and some deformation may remain.5

Construction is only part of the explanation. Fiber and yarn structure also affect their response to tension. Processing matters too: for cotton knits, knitting parameters, yarn count, processing tension, relaxation, and finishing influence fabric dimensions and shrinkage.6

Together, these distinctions explain why the word knitted does not specify a fixed amount of stretch, complete recovery, or a finished fabric’s dimensional behavior. Those claims need the context of the construction, fiber and yarn, and finishing.56

Citations

  1. ↩
  2. ↩ ↩2 ↩3 ↩4
    • Knitting Technology — 1.0 Introduction and Basic Concepts — NPTEL / Indian Institute of Technology Delhi. Evidence locator: Section 1.1 Basic concepts, yarn-path and supply paragraphs following Figures 3–4.
    • Knit Basics — Cotton Incorporated / CottonWorks. Evidence locator: Weft Knitting, final paragraph, and Warp Knitting, opening two paragraphs.
    ↩ ↩2 ↩3
    • Knit Basics — Cotton Incorporated / CottonWorks. Evidence locator: Weft Knitting, circular-machine paragraph and caption, and flat-bed-machine paragraph.
    ↩ ↩2
  3. ↩ ↩2
  4. ↩ ↩2

Sources used

Registry-backed sources reviewed for this page.

  1. SRC-000110Technical Documentation

    Fabric Manufacture I — 1. Introduction to Fabric Manufacturing; 1.1 Introduction

    NPTEL / Indian Institute of Technology Delhi

    Open source
  2. SRC-000112Technical Documentation

    Knit Basics

    Cotton Incorporated / CottonWorks

    Open source
  3. SRC-000117Technical Documentation

    Knitting Technology — 1.0 Introduction and Basic Concepts

    NPTEL / Indian Institute of Technology Delhi

    Open source
  4. SRC-000118Technical Documentation

    Textile Testing — Tensile Testing: Stress-Strain Curve

    NPTEL / Indian Institute of Technology Delhi

    Open source
  5. SRC-000119Technical Documentation

    Wet Processing of 100% Cotton Knitted Fabrics

    Cotton Incorporated · TRI 3011; copyright 1999 · 1999

    Open source